It’s hard to imagine that the store that sold elephant guns to Teddy Roosevelt for a safari and equipped Richard Byrd’s arctic adventure would one day be the premier teen mall store destination. American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch Co. (Tii:ANF) has dramatically shifted its focus since founder David Abercrombie opened his doors in 1892. The former trapper, prospector, topographer, and railroad surveyor wanted his store to serve the needs of people like him: professional and passionate outdoorsmen.

An inventor and ingenious designer of tents, rucksacks and other camping equipment, Abercrombie wanted to share his love of the outdoors and imagined that Abercrombie and Co. could be a specialty store that would supply a range of professional gear to outfit any kind of outdoor excursion. By 1904, it had become a destination for elite American adventurers and sportspeople. Notable Americans like Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh, and William Taft all sported Abercrombie wear long before it became fashionable.

Ezra Fitch, one of the store’s regular customers and a friend of Abercrombie’s, convinced the store owner to let him purchase a major share in the growing company. Almost immediately, Fitch rolled out an impressive 456-page catalog with advice columns about hunting, fishing and other outdoor experiences. The catalog was shipped to 50,000 people around the world. Fitch also encouraged a move to a more fashionable location guaranteed to gain notice on Madison Avenue. The new location occupied a 12-story building and included a kennel for guests to board dogs and cats.

A brand that specialized in outdoor wear and gear was a perfect fit for the needs of the military. In the 1940s and ’50s, the store made uniforms for men and women in the armed forces. Abercrombie and Fitch had cultivated their reputation for specialized apparel. During the '60s, their clothes became sought-after and purchased by notable people like President John F. Kennedy. In 1964, the flagship store was the venue for part of a film with Rock Hudson and Paula Prentiss, a rom-com called “Man’s Favorite Sport.”

The store stumbled and had serious financial difficulties in the mid-1970s. Purchased by Oshman’s Sporting Goods, Abercrombie & Fitch existed temporarily as a mail-order catalog with just a handful of retail locations until The Limited founder Leslie Wexner saw potential in the struggling brand. Wexner purchased the store in 1988 and began to rework its focus as he had done for mall store companion Victoria’s Secret.

Newly hired CEO Mike Jeffries took the reigns in 1992 and hired renowned photographer Bruce Weber who would create the iconic Abercrombie look: preppy, effortless and beautifully exclusive.

Jeffries took the brand public in 1996 and launched the Hollister Co. brand in 2000. The Hollister look was meant to appeal to pre-teens and carried the ideals of Abercrombie to an even wider group of consumers.

Abercrombie & Fitch has been a brand that has used exclusivity to attract customers since the beginning. Through its evolution, Abercrombie customers have always pursued the elite: elite sportsmen in the early 1900s and elite teens of the 2000s.

As of June 2023, Abercrombie & Fitch operates 750 stores worldwide. The company’s new targeted demographic, consumers aged 22-45, is responding with renewed interest. With a new message of inclusivity, the brand offers plus sizes and looks that are more mature and less preppy. The company currently has five well-known brands: Abercrombie & Fitch, Abercrombie Kids, Hollister, Gilly Hicks and Social Tourist.

From its early roots as an outdoor outfitter to its current position as a purveyor of stylish clothing, Abercrombie & Fitch has always found a way to succeed. In April of 2023, the company reported its strongest sales growth in a decade.